Wednesday, April 24, 2013

Paris With Children by Kim Horton Levesque





Readers of my Paris book likely know of Kim Horton Levesque, who wrote an indispensable book called Pampered in Paris: A Guide to the Best Spas, Salons and Beauty Boutiques (The Little Bookroom, 2010) -- I featured this terrific book under the 'Spas' entry in my A to Z Miscellany.  Kim's been busy since that book was published, and her newest project is Paris With Children (also published by The Little Bookroom, one of my very favorite book publishers in the world).  I'm pleased and honored to participate in Kim's official blog tour this season.

I know very well that Kim's Pampered book took a lot of work, but Paris With Children took infinitely more, and Kim deserves a whole heap of praise for compiling such a book.  In the same way that I only recently began to appreciate how beneficial spas are for travelers, it was only when I read Kim's new book that I discovered it isn't just for travelers with children in tow.  There are so many great suggestions in this book for anyone who's spending time in Paris.

The first 46 pages of the book are devoted to practical information -- preparing for your Paris journey and useful tips for when you arrive -- and then Kim shares a wealth of Play, Eat, Shop, Stay recommendations for 9 geographic neighborhoods (rather than Paris's 20 arrondissements -- she explains that designating an area 'Louvre-Tuileries-Opera' is more useful, especially to a parent who is unfamiliar with Paris).  

The features I like best are that Kim suggests not only lesser-known activities and sites but also points out features of famous places that are interesting and useful (and that in some cases I'd completely forgotten about); the recommendations for places to stay are winners with or without kids and I learned of a handful of accommodations that I'm going to investigate, like the

Hospitel Hôtel Dieu -- did you know there is actual hotel on the 6th floor of Paris's oldest hospital?  It's right on place du Parvis Notre Dame and there are 14 rooms, a bit spartan as you might expect but a double is about 72 euros; the boutiques and stores included are all unique, French, and places many visitors would enjoy frequenting; and finally Kim's attitude, which is admittedly just like mine.  Fifteen years ago, a few months before my daughter was born, I was feeling anxious that my life as a mother was going to drastically alter my ability to travel.  My friend, Bruce H., helped me snap out of my funk by pointing out that my husband and I would have to travel differently than we did before but we would indeed still travel, because we love it.  As Bruce is both a parent and a world traveler, he advised us not to overthink the situation, because then we would find a million reasons not to travel.  The way Kim and I see it, parents can make the decision never to go anywhere and deprive both children and adults of a priceless experience, or they can plan an itinerary with kids in mind and take off on a new journey.  Children have as much to teach us as we do them when traveling -- their curiosity and imagination make even familiar destinations seem new.  Worth noting is a letter to the editor I read some years ago in the travel section of The New York Times.  The writer stated she felt that the author of a previously published essay underestimated the impact of a five-year-old child's first trip to Europe.  She emphasized that twenty years after her first trip to Italy, she became an art student, earned her master's degree in art history, and worked as a museum curator.  My personal experiences in traveling with children have taught me that one should never underestimate how much children will absorb and retain, and what will inspire and enthuse them.     


What made you decide to write this book?

A: For one, I’m an idealist. As I mentioned in the book’s introduction, I believe that immersing my children in an unfamiliar language, exposing them to unforgettable art and new flavors will nurture their curiosity and hopefully inspire a lifetime of learning. It’s important for them to see firsthand that people eat, speak, live and believe differently in this world.

Secondly, I thought that if I wrote about this subject we’d get to spend more time together in Paris as a family for the research phase than we did with my last book––and we did. My girls helped me so much–they were always the voice of reason and pragmatism as we ran around the city. They were quick to tell me when they’d had enough sightseeing which was my cue to find the nearest playground and let them run off steam.

I’d traveled to Paris many times with the girls, but had never purchased a travel-with-kids type of book because they didn’t speak to me. I wanted to put together an extraordinarily practical guide for parents who take their kids to Paris. I’d heard my friends express their fear of traveling abroad with their little ones many times––I kept them in mind as I wrote this. I wanted families to be able to plan a good balance of adult and child-centered activities. Equally important, I wanted them to be able to find restrooms (it can be tough in Paris!) and quick, healthy meals when they were out and about.


Is there an activity/site that ended up surprising you as being interesting for kids?

A: Montmartre’s Place du Tertre comes to mind. I’d taken my kids to Sacré-Coeur before, but hadn’t walked them up the backside of the hill––this is the Montmartre walk I’ve included in my book. I had, however, done this tour with a group of high school students about a decade ago. I taught French for six years and accompanied several groups of teenagers to France and Francophone countries–and I remembered them loving Place du Tertre and the Montmartre neighborhood, but I wasn’t sure what my 6-year-old would think.

My daughter and I had had a delightful time meandering the steep backstreets behind the Sacré-Coeur Basilica. We’d passed a group of silver-haired French women who were painting the scenery on Place Emile Goudeau – an open-air art class. Madeleine asked to stop and watch. She looked at me after a few minutes, eyes earnest, and said, “Mom, I am coming to Paris when I’m older to study art. I want to paint like this.” I loved hearing that!

We continued on our way towards Place du Tertre, stopping so she could play and have a snack at Square Suzanne Buisson, a compact but well-appointed park.

Eventually, we reached the Place du Tertre. I saw the mass of tourists and instantly recoiled. I guess I’d always fancied myself too sophisticated a traveler to spend much time in what is such a touristy area. Madeleine in all of her glorious innocence, however, saw something completely different. She saw a bustling square full of artists–brimming with bright colors and cheerful activity. She asked for a portrait––I cringed (discreetly). In less than a minute she was seated before an artist. And then, almost immediately, I found myself overcome with an acute sense of joy, understanding that we were indelibly recording the collection of extraordinary moments that we had shared that day...in chalk. Madeleine had taken me off-checklist and on an unanticipated detour to what she wanted to see and do.

Photos end up piled in drawers, at least mine do. Paintings, especially ones of your child, are framed and hung. This day I’d planned to show “my” off-the-beaten-path Paris to Madeleine–instead she shared hers with me. It was a compelling moment that informed the rest of our trip and all of our travels since.

My best advice for parents: Be open to the Paris your child wants to see.

Madeleine in place du Tertre

Hotels that are suitable for families, who have just one child or more, are hard to identify in guidebooks and even on some websites. Talk about a handful of Paris hotels that you particularly recommend and why.

A: All travelers will find the hotels I’ve included in Paris with Children appealing. Primarily because I tried to find those that offer more space than the typical minuscule Parisian room. One of my favorites is the Hôtel Résidence Henri IV in the Latin Quarter (50, rue des Bernardins, 5th arr., www.residencehenri4.com/index.php). It’s tucked into a quiet cul-de-sac and sits adjacent to a tranquil park with a playground for 2- to 10-year-olds. The hotel’s interior is traditionally decorated; each room recalls King Henri IV and significant personalities in his life. In addition to the eight guest rooms, there are five apartments. Each is equipped with a kitchenette that has a small refrigerator, mini-bar, electric cooktop, microwave, dishes and utensils (Doubles from 145E; apartments from 250E). It’s the next best thing to an actual apartment.

My Left-Bank bias will be apparent here as I suggest another outstanding hotel, this time in the Saint-Germain neighborhood. I think the Relais St. Germain (9, carrefour de l’Odéon, 6th arr., www.hotel-paris-relais-saint-germain.com) is an excellent choice for families, but it books up months in advance so call early. Its decor is warm and inviting and rooms are large for Paris. Doubles can accommodate families of four on a king-sized bed and a day bed with trundle (400E). This boutique hotel also happens to be owned and managed by acclaimed chef Yves Camdeborde and his wife, Claudine. A gourmet breakfast is included in the nightly price and can be taken in-room at any time during the day or until 10:30am in the restaurant. Extra beds and baby cots are available.

Apartments, however, have many advantages over hotel rooms. Flats are usually less expensive than a hotel and children have more space to roam. Kitchen facilities are invaluable for those with picky eaters or food allergies. Apartments offer a more authentic glimpse into everyday life in the capital by allowing families to interact with Parisians as neighbors. I’ve had good experiences with several companies including www.parisattitude.com and www.haveninparis.com. I’ve provided a more extensive list of agencies in my book as well the questions parents must ask before renting.

                                                                                                       Charlotte and Juliette at the Jardin     
                                                                                                       du Luxembourg gates.


Regarding places to eat, what are some quintessentially Parisian restaurants, cafes, bistros, and brasseries that are great for kids?

A: A few places come to mind. The first isn’t in the book, but we ate there this past December a couple of times. It’s historic, founded in 1791, and convenient to Jardin du Luxembourg. The staff was overwhelmingly gracious–it’s what we’ve always found when we go out as a family. I’ve taught the girls to use S’il vous plaît, Monsieur, Madame and Merci with reckless abandon, and it’s opened many doors. The waiter told me he had a “VIP” area especially for us, which meant a large booth upstairs that seated 5-6 people comfortably. Food is traditional brasserie fare–not outstanding but solid: sandwiches, salads, a warm daily special and homemade desserts. Au Petit Suisse, 16, rue Vaugirard, 6th arrondissement.                                                                                        
                                                                                                         
I also love the casual, organic eatery, La Ferme (55-57, rue St. Roch, 1st arr.), not far from the Opéra Garnier. Customers order at a counter or select items such as yogurt, salads and sandwiches from a self-service cooler. The tomato, spinach and goat cheese tourte is addictive, desserts and baked goods scrumptious. Brunch features items that are familiar to an American palate and is served on Sundays. There are two more locations in the 8th arrondissement.

Boulangeries (bakeries), are another convenient option for families. The biggest problem with eating in a traditional café or restaurant, with young kids especially, is the time commitment it requires––typically 90 minutes for a café and a minimum of 2-3 hours for dinner in a restaurant. Parents will see plenty of kids in cafés and bistros, but it’s still uncommon to see little ones in the city’s finer restaurants. French culture is still a relatively formal one in which children are expected to be well-behaved at the table.

I usually opt for packing a picnic or finding food in a bakery at lunchtime. In addition to baked goods, most bakeries sell pre-made sandwiches, salads, quiches and pizzas that they will reheat. One of my favorites is Eric Kayser (33, rue Danielle Casanova, 1st arr., a handful of other locations throughout the city; www.maison-kayser.com). Kayser proposes fruit salad, delicious sandwiches, salads, drinks, desserts, yogurt and a variety of breads. Not to be missed: the white chocolate brioche, so incredible it’s usually sold out after lunch (3E).

I like to stop at cafés in the afternoon for a drink with my daughters when it’s not as busy (between 2pm-6pm). They love Perrier menthe (sparkling water with sweet, mint syrup) or a citron pressé (fresh, mix-it-yourself lemonade).

Juliette with Perrier Menthe.


I am so happy that you not only include the Musée du Louvre in your book but that you also share concrete suggestions for visiting the vast museum. Can you outline here some of your advice for visiting le Louvre and other art museums in Paris as well?

A: The Louvre can be intimidating. Before we leave home, I take a virtual tour of some of the collections online with my kids. It gets them excited about seeing the art in person. Once we’ve made it to the museum, I make sure the girls have eaten something and used the bathroom before heading to the galleries. The WCs are difficult to find and it’s easy to get lost in the maze of rooms.

Parents should buy advance-purchase tickets to avoid the queues at ticket windows. In high season, the line to enter through the pyramid can be prohibitively long and visitors who have waited there must do it again once inside to buy tickets. We almost always enter through the Galérie du Carrousel at 99, rue de Rivoli. It leads through the underground shopping mall to the museum’s main hall, and there’s no queue. It’s also a good idea to visit the Louvre on days when it stays open later into the evening (all of Paris’s principal museums including Musée d’Orsay keep late hours like this one or two days a week). Jet-lagged children are awake and tourist traffic is significantly lighter, which can make all the difference.


If you asked your daughters to name five of their Parisian favorites, what would they say?

A: This makes me laugh because it illustrates perfectly the disparity between what kids actually remember and what parents think will be most memorable for their children. I ask my girls this question after each trip and note their comments. After the research trip for Paris with Children, the highlights for my 6-year-old included the trampolines at the Tuileries garden, the carousel at Luxembourg garden, macarons, and hot chocolate at Bistrot des Amis (she remembered the name). For my 4-year-old it was a merry-go-round, pain au chocolat (chocolate croissant) and gelato. Last but not least, my 2-year-old had the most concise list: barbe à papa (cotton candy). Of course it would have been nice if they’d mentioned architecture or art, but I was pleased that they'd picked up a few French words during our stay!

Madeleine and bubble performer in front of the Louvre

Why there is just one walk, in Montmartre, in your book?

A: Montmartre is the only walk I wrote for the book. The area certainly has its charm, especially the streets I’ve highlighted in the walk, but it’s not a district that I care to linger in with my children. The hucksters and scamsters who loiter on the steps that lead to the basilica make me want to get in and get out. And Paris’s most famous red-light district is located around the base of the hill near métro Pigalle––adult cabarets and ‘specialty’ stores are everywhere. Most of the area is touristy enough, but it’s still not child-friendly sightseeing. In peak season, the route that most visitors take from métro Anvers up rue de Steinkerque is overwhelmingly busy. I wanted to offer families a safe and comfortable way to see the neighborhood with this walk.

I prefer to eat and shop with my kids on the streets a bit farther south, near the Saint-Georges and Notre-Dame-de Lorette métro stops–still within 10-minutes walking distance of the Basilica. Rue des Martyrs is a traditional neighborhood market street with permanent food shops. Rose Bakery, the celebrated, organic, counter-service style café is located at 46, rue des Martyrs. It's one of the few places to offer gluten-free baked goods in the city. There’s also a fun candy store on the street, Käramell (15, rue des Martyrs, 9th arr.).


Do you have any advice about packing?

A: I do! I used to be able to travel for months with a fairly small backpack, but having children has changed all of that of course! It’s tough to pack light with infants: diapers, gear, gadgets, care items and food fill luggage quickly. The amount I pack is sort of inversely proportional to their age. I love to use packing cubes–I’ve had the ebags brand for years and they’ve held up brilliantly. I separate each child’s clothes into cubes and it’s virtually instant unpacking once we arrive. I just unzip and pop them into a dresser drawer. I’ll separate pajamas, underwear and bathing suits into a separate cube. Renting an apartment with a washer and dryer makes packing light more realistic–another major advantage over hotels.

As far as actual luggage, I’m keen on suitcases with spinners because they maneuver easily. You’ve got to be agile when you’re trying to keep a handle on a wandering toddler in an airport. For the five of us, we aim to bring a maximum of two medium-large suitcases and two medium backpacks. This way my husband and I have one hand free at all times. I was attracted by the price point on these convertible backpacks initially, but the quality has been stellar so we’ve stuck with them. I’ve only needed to augment my cube supply, but haven’t replaced any of them in the past five years. I’d be remiss if I failed to mention my favorite packing list available at OneBag.com.  I adapt it slightly depending on the trip, but I rarely forget anything when I use this as a guide. We also bring along an umbrella-style stroller–it seems to work best for Paris's narrow doorways and cobblestones.

 Up next for Kim: a trip to Scandinavia this summer, en famille, bien sur.  Stay tuned...!


 All photos in this post were taken by Kim Horton Levesque.






 The author and Madeleine in front of Notre-Dame.


Friday, March 29, 2013

Kent, England



I took all of these photos at Penshurst Place and Garden in Kent, known as 'the Garden of England.'  We ended our trip here, visiting with old friends who have now lived in Sevenoaks for many years and seeing a little more of a part of England that has perhaps an embarassment of riches.  On a previous trip, we visited Chartwell (Churchill's home from 1924 to the end of his life) and Sissinghurst  Castle, whose beautiful garden was created by Vita Sackville-West and Harold Nicolson in the 1930s.  Both were absolutely wonderful and memorable.

On this visit, our friends Luc and Lorraine took us to three castles that were equally as wonderful, one of which is practically within walking distance of their house: Knole, referred to as "England's forgotten palace."  Set in a medieval deer park (and yes, there are deer everywhere and they walk up quite close to people), Knole is one of England's most important and complete historic houses.  It was remodeled by the family of Vita Sackville-West, who still live here today and have for the last 400 years.

Penshurst is one of England's oldest family homes, and it has belonged to royalty and nobles -- including Henry VIII -- for more than six centuries.  The castle's Barons Hall, dating from 1341, is magnificent.  Sir John Julius Norwich has described it as "one of the grandest rooms in the world" and it has featured in several films, including 'The Princess Bride.'  But Penshurst's formal gardens really knock your socks off.  An 11 acre series of walled gardens create garden 'rooms,' each one distinct from another, with different foliage and blooms occurring throughout the year.

Hever Castle & Gardens is noteworthy for its double moated, 13th century castle which was the childhood home of Anne Boleyn.  Its gardens are beautiful as well, but the water maze might be the property's most popular feature!

Kent is also home to Leeds Castle, Tunbridge Wells Museum and Art Gallery, Spa Valley Railway, Canterbury Cathedral, Dover Castle, and the home of Charles Darwin (an English Heritage property), among many other noteworthy attractions. 

Regrettably, I was not able to visit the Great Dixter House & Gardens, which is in nearby East Sussex.  I'd especially wanted to visit Great Dixter because the manor house there -- with one of the largest surviving timber-framed halls in the country -- was the longtime home of noted British gardener and gardening writer Christopher Lloyd, and the gardens consistently appear on a short list of top gardens in England.  But additionally, readers of my Istanbul book may recall that I included an essay entitled 'The Turkish Rose' by Fergus Garrett, who is the head gardener at Great Dixter.  It's a wonderful piece, and I'd hoped to meet him in person.  Ah well, as the French say, il faut toujours garder une perle pour la prochaine fois (it's necessary to save a pearl for the next time)...

Finally, I have come to the end of this series of posts, and therefore, I'm about to start posting like mad on a number of other topics and destinations: the pile I've amassed for blog posts is a leaning tower of papers, and needs to be reduced!

The photo of the London Eye below, as seen from the Kensington Gardens, is a reminder to either reserve in advance or arrive early to buy your tickets.  My daughter really wanted to go, and we waffled as my husband is afraid of heights and wasn't keen on it, and then we made a last-minute decision to go but when we arrived in the late morning the wait was an hour and a half.  La prochaine fois! 



Friday, March 8, 2013

The Cotswolds







When we checked in at the rental counter to pick up the car we were driving to the Cotswolds, the representative told us he was offering us "the deal of the century": an upgrade to a Mercedes Benz for only 9 euros more per day.   It seemed like a good idea at the time, so we agreed.  But it had been almost 14 years since my husband had last driven in a car with the steering wheel on the opposite side, and though he was very comfortable with it in England and Wales, this time proved different, and he was on the verge of cancelling the whole plan to drive to the Cotswolds.  But he decided to persevere, and we finally arrived in Adlestrop (after a few near mishaps) at The Old Post Office, a lovely bed-and-breakfast that was once an 18th century post office.  It was lunchtime and our hosts sent us to nearby Daylesford, an absolutely fabulous organic farm with a restaurant and shop and tables set up in an indoor courtyard.  We were at one of those tables in the courtyard, enjoying an assortment of delicious breads with a salad of heirloom tomatoes, feta, and mint and another with wild rice, dried apricots, and pistachios; my daughter was drinking an elderflower pressé from Belvoir Fruit Farms and I was drinking a crisp, white wine from Daylesford's sister farm in Provence, Château Léoube; the sun came out, and my husband asked, "what would you say if we didn't drive on to Cornwall tomorrow?"  Without missing a beat I said that was a terrific idea.

The original plan was too ambitious to begin with -- a three to four hour drive -- even under the best of circumstances (being comfortable behind the wheel).  So, happily we were able to stay on at The Old Post Office, and enjoy more visits to Daylesford!  I am completely smitten with this estate, run by Lady Carole Bamford.  Not only is there the cheese room, produce market, bakery, and cafe -- which was honored with a Bib Gourmand award from Michelin two years in a row -- but there's also the farmshop, which is filled with truly wonderful items like jars of strong English mustard, red onion and apple chutney, plum jam, sturdy cotton canvas tote bags, wooden utensils, towels, tabletop items, body and bath items, olive oil from Château Léoube, and an assortment of different sized storage containers made of white ceramic with smooth, wooden lids that I absolutely love.  And, there's also a cookery school and a spa.  (I didn't know until I got home that there is a three-story Farmshop & Cafe in London [44b Pimlico Road, SW1 / Sloane Square tube stop / open 8 a.m. to 7 p.m.] plus one in the Selfridges Food Hall [400 Oxford Street, W1] and another in Notting Hill at 208-212 Westbourne Grove, W11.)

The Old Post Office is a truly lovely lodging that is run by a very friendly couple who are enthusiastic about their little corner of the region, and there is a selection of guides and maps for guests to peruse.  There are two large bedrooms with ensuite bathrooms, on two different levels, and the breakfast served is substantial, varied, and delicious.  The hosts do fully expect guests to vacate the premises after breakfast until about 3:00 or 4:00 in the afternoon, so this isn't the place to stay if you have visions of lolling about all day.  Of course, this is the general pattern of bed-and-breakfasts everywhere; but one day when we came back from a hike at lunchtime, to kick off our muddy boots and take showers, we were surprised to learn that this was unexpected and not really welcome.  I highly recommend staying here, and this somewhat peculiar policy (which should be clearly stated on the website or in the rooms) is not a reason to avoid reserving: simply plan your days so that you are out and about until the late afternoon.

The Old Post Office property is also very pretty, and just to the left of the driveway is a wooden bus shelter with ADLESTROP painted on it in big letters.  The village is tiny -- less than 100 people -- and is in the North Cotswolds in a designated Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.  Adlestrop's railway station (no longer around) was immortalised in a poem written by Edward Thomas (1878-1917), who was a poet and essayist killed in action in the Battle of Arras in France.  On 24 June, 1914, Thomas was on an express train that may or may not have made an unscheduled stop at the Adlestrop station -- there seems to some disagreement about this on various Web pages I read.  But to me it doesn't matter whether the train really did or didn't stop -- it's  a beautiful poem, one which gives the impression of someone looking out the window of the train and being struck by the utter peace and quiet of a beautiful village on the eve of the First World War.  A copy of the poem was in our room at The Old Post Office, and appears below:   


Adlestrop

Yes, I remember Adlestrop --
The name because one afternoon
Of heat the express-train drew up there
Unwontedly.  It was late June.

The steam hissed.  Someone cleared his throat.
No one left and no one came
On the bare platform.  What I saw
Was Adlestrop -- only the name

And willows, willow-herb, and grass,
And meadowsweet, and haycocks dry,
No whit less still and lonely fair
Than the high cloudlets in the sky.

And for that minute a blackbird sang
Close by, and round him, mistier,
Farther and farther, all the birds
of Oxfordshire and Gloucestershire.

Adlestrop's other claim to fame is that Jane Austen's uncle was the vicar at  The Old Rectory, and according to The Old Post Office's website, it's believed that Austen used Adlestrop as a model for at least one location in Mansfield Park.  

We spent our three days visiting the Bourton House Garden ('The Cotswolds' best kept secret,' 2 miles west of Moreton-in-Marsh); Chipping Campden (with its beautiful, honey-colored stone Market Hall dating from the 17th century; the word 'chipping' means market); Lower Slaughter ("Voted Most Beautiful Village in the Cotswolds"); Stow-on-the-Wold (very picturesque and home to The Royalist Hotel, said to be the oldest inn in England); and Broadway (a quintessential Cotswold village that is home to the very atmospheric Lygon Arms Hotel). The annual Cotswolds Gardens Guide is a very helpful brochure that can be found at all the area gardens and most inns and shops.

We also enjoyed a terrific dinner in the pub at The Fox Inn (Lower Oddington), which was clearly a favorite locally and made us feel we were truly in the English countryside. There are three rooms available for overnight accommodation.

Note: though the day we arrived it was warm and sunny, the weather turned quite cool, and was downright cold on the day we went to the Bourton House Garden -- cold as in my lips turned blue and my teeth were chattering!  Plus it was raining for part of the day.  Just because it's summer in England doesn't necessarily mean you can get by with cotton shirts and shorts: be sure to bring pants, a warm sweater, a small umbrella or a rain parka, and appropriate footwear if you're interested in walking along the Cotswold Way National Trail.  The Trail is a spectacular, 102-mile, long distance walk between Chipping Campden and Bath.  You can walk it in one continuous journey or in shorter sections, and you pass through grasslands, villages, pastures, valleys, and woodlands and the views are tremendous.  And if you're a map nut like me, you will really appreciate the British Ordnance Survey Maps, one of which (OL45) is devoted to the Cotswolds.

As this post turned out to be longer than I expected, I will post one more, on Kent, before I finally turn to other destinations and topics! 


Monday, January 14, 2013

Spitalfields, London

This final London post is mostly devoted to a singular book and a singular site, with a few short comments at the very end.  It's long, but I think you'll find it rewarding!

If you read an earlier post, you know that I spent a fantastic Sunday in the East End.  When I was in the really neat store, Labour & Wait, I bought a copy of Spitalfields Life, by "The Gentle Author" (Saltyard Books, 2012).  [And as an aside, I can't resist telling you what a wonderful publisher Saltyard Books is! This is what they say about themselves: "Kick off your shoes.  Pour yourself a drink.  The weekend has only just begun.  Here at the Saltyard we believe in doing things right.  We believe that life is full of goodness.  All you need to really enjoy it is a little time...We believe in travel and time away.  What better than waking up somewhere new on a Saturday morning, as the sun creeps slowly across the floor?...At the Saltyard we believe that the weekend can be longer, that food can taste better, and that the sunset on Sunday will take a lifetime to dip below the horizon."]  Anyway, the book just looked irresistible, really unusual, and I had to have it.  It didn't disappoint: this is the kind of book I wish existed for lots of other neighborhoods around the world.  As "Your Loyal Servant, The Gentle Author" notes in the Introduction, "a new life began for me when I came to live here in a corner of London I had visited for many years."  The author (female or male, I don't know) explains that a thousand years after the Romans were in London, a man named Walter Brunus opened St. Mary's Hospital for the poor, and over time St. Mary's Hospital Fields became known as Spitalfields (and still today older folks refer to it as 'the fields').

The East End has historically been the immigrant neighborhood of London.  Beginning in the 12th century, Jews started a market here, and they were followed by Huguenot silk weavers from France and Belgium; migrant workers from Kent and East Anglia; Irish refugees; Sikhs, Pakistanis, and Bengalis; and more recently Afro-Caribbeans, Maltese, Germans, Scandinavians, Italians, Somalis, Thais, Filipinos, Latin Americans, Nigerians, Ghanians, and more.  It's a fact that there has occasionally been conflict in the East End, but, as the author notes, "this has always been counterbalanced by a strong egalitarian spirit, nurtured in a society where, of necessity, people learn to live alongside each other and thereby come to understand each other."

The Gentle Author recognized that a lifetime's interest in this neighborhood meant the subject was too large for any writer to create a definitive account.  So writing one story a day, each about a different person in Spitalfields, was the only way to go, and thus a recording of life in Spitalfields began.  The stories in this book originally appeared on the Author's blog, from the first eighteen months of its existence.  (Just a few comments about the blog are "Spitalfields Life is a barricade against the tide of cultural amnesia"; "A beautiful blog, the gentle author is a joy to read"; "Really loving Spitalfields Life, a blog about life in the heart of London"; and "Every neighborhood in the world should have a chronicler like @thegentleauthor") 

Spitalfields Life introduces you to the site of Shakespeare's first theater in Shoreditch, Alan Hughes the master bell-founder (whose business began in 1570), the Columbia Road Flower Market, Sandra Esqulant (owner of The Golden Heart pub and "uncrowned monarch of Spitalfields"), the curry chefs of Brick Lane, 4th-generation paper bag seller Paul Gardner, street artist Ben Eine, and Rob Ryan, who single handedly reinvented the lost art of paper cutting -- one of his paper cut designs adorns the last page of every story in the book.  Ryan has worked on projects with Paul Smith, Liberty of London, Vogue, and Fortnum & Mason.  His website is really appealing (and some of his work is available on etsy.com), and happily, the shop at the Museum of Arts and Design in New York carries a boxed set of four ceramic plates featuring a different Ryan design (in blue) on each one!  ('Four Trees, Four Seasons' is the official name of the set.)

Many people have told The Gentle Author that "Spitalfields has changed," but she/he has found that "there are plenty of people in the neighborhood who still carry the culture and stories of this place stretching back over centuries."  I would consider it an honor to meet The Gentle Author; perhaps one happy day I will.  But until then, there is this wonderful book and blog. (There is also the great Spitalfields Life map/guide -- produced by Herb Lester Associates -- that I recommended in a previous post.)

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My good friend Wendy has been to London many times, and she usually visits friends who have been in the habit of picking one unusual thing to do during her stay.  Not long ago the friends made reservations at the Dennis Severs House.  Wendy told me it was on her short list of most unique places she's ever been, so I was eager to borrow her copy of 18 Folgate Street: The Tale of a House in Spitalfields (Chatto & Windus, 2001; pictured above).  The final lines in the book read: "And, dear visitor, take this as the motto of the house: AUT VISUM AUT NON!  (Oh, for God's sake!)  You either see it or you don't."  So of course after I read that it I was filled with enthusiasm to visit the house, but unfortunately I wasn't going to be in London for the evening, candlelight tour, which I understand is the one you want to do (as opposed to daytime tours).  So I can't tell you about it; but that's not stopping me from recommending it, and in fact I recommended it to my friend Amy, who went to London last month with her husband and two daughters.  Amy reserved for the candlelight tour, and here's what she reports:



Visiting the Dennis Severs House is a magical experience that transports you back to the early 18thcentury.  The house is the creation of artist Dennis Severs, who lived in the house much the same way as its original occupants might have done.  He did this for his personal enjoyment and for the atmosphere, which he then employed to create an extraordinary experience for visitors.  To enter its door is to pass through the frame of a painting, with a time and life of its own.  Upon entering, it's as if you have interrupted a family of Huguenot silk weavers named Jervis who, though they can still be heard, seem just out of sight.  The journey takes you through 10 rooms, each lit by fire and candlelight (there is no electric light), and in each you are filled with an array of stimulants to the senses. Visitors are encouraged to do what they would if looking at a painting, use what they see and sense to piece together the scene they have just missed, thus this is Mr. Severs’ intention, and what you imagine is his art.

After 30 years the experience ranks as one of the rarest in the world.  British artist David Hockney once rated its effect as standing amongst those of the world’s great opera experiences.  The visit, about 45 minutes, is conducted in silence, and there's smoky light, creaking footsteps, whispers, closing doors, ticking clocks, pleasing aromas and the mysterious presence of a black cat.   When I went the house was particularly lovely decorated for the Christmas holiday.  Four tours are offered -- see the website for more details.

Amy has been among my traveling companions, so I can tell you without hesitation that if she enthuses about something, she is sincere.  She's also a travel consultant, and may be reached via her website -- if you're way too busy to plan a trip, or need some help in putting together a unique itinerary, Amy will create a customized plan for you (including one with kids) at favorable rates.  
*

*A good article to read about the East End is 'London Goes Electric', Kate Maxwell, photographs by Lisa Limer, illustrations by Peter Oumanski, Conde Nast Traveler, May 2012)

*Two other great reads I neglected to mention previously: A Jane Austen Education: How Six Novels Taught Me  About Love, Friendship, and the Things That Really Matter by William Deresiewicz (Penguin, 2011).  I loved this book, and it prompted me to begin on an Austen reading fest (sad confession: I'd only read Pride and Prejudice) -- so I read Emma, loved it, and now have Persuasion on my nightstand.  Bloody Confused!: A Clueless American Sportswriter Seeks Solace in English Soccer by Chuck Culpepper (Broadway 2008).  Though this is a personal experience of English soccer, it's also great for a fairly in-depth view of the sport in Britain.  Full disclosure:  Chuck is an old friend, and he's a very good writer and very funny.  But even if I'd never met him, I'd recommend his book to anyone going to England, to any soccer fan, and to any sports fan.

*There is a wonderful etching in the collection of the British Museum called London: 'The Long View' by Wenceslaus Hollar (1607-77).  I bought a postcard of it in the museum bookstore and wish I could scan it for inclusion in my blog but the image is copyrighted and I don't want to violate copyright law.  Hollar was born in Prague and was a draftsman and etcher before coming to London, where he worked on book illustration and cartography.  In 1666 he was named 'Scenographus regius' by the king, but the Great Fire of that same year put an abrupt halt to Hollar's project, which was to capture the entire city (he completed six sheets of drawings before the Fire) -- look for the postcard, and the print suitable for framing, in the museum shop.

*Readers of my previous posts know that I recommended The Golden Hind [73 Marylebone Lane, W1] for fish and chips.  I'd meant to share a little of the background behind this quintessential British specialty, which I gleaned from The Traditional Shops and Restaurants of London by Eugenia Bell (Little Bookroom).  Bell informs us that the fish evolved separately from the chips: fried wedges of potato ("almost certainly a French invention") was a staple in the north of England in the 19th century.  Fried fish came from Jewish kitchens of the East End, and one of the earliest recorded fish-and-chip shops in London was Joseph Malin's in Whitechapel, dating from about 1860.  Bell notes that fish-and-chips as a meal first caught on in England's northern cities and then spread to holiday resort towns along the coasts.  It became so essential that "during the Second World War, the Minister of Food, Lord Woolton, decreed that it would not be rationed.  Today there is even a professional body, the National Federation of Fish Friers, which publishes a magazine, the Fish Friers Review."  In London, different types of fish can be found on a "chippie" menu -- cod, hake, haddock, and plaice are traditional, but most of the fish today comes frozen, sadly, from Norway, Iceland, the Faroe Islands, and Russia.  The oldest fish-and-chips shop in London is Rock & Sole Plaice [47 Endell Street, WC2]. 

*Finally, kudos to British Airways for great flights and great service (and even, believe it or not, meals that were actually pretty good).  BA also offers one of the few morning flights from New York, which means that you arrive in London in the evening, avoiding the worst effects of jet lag.  My first choice is always to fly the airline of the country I'm visiting, and I'm so happy that my first BA flight has insured it won't be my last.  

Next: The Cotswolds

Thursday, January 3, 2013

London







GOOD WISHES TO EVERYONE IN 2013!

Another great day out in London took in three major sites and three forms of transportation (I love to try all the local forms of public transportation wherever I travel). So on this day we took the Underground to the Tower of London (we'd seen the Ceremony of the Keys at nighttime, when the Tower is closed; see earlier post for details about the Ceremony), then we took a Thames Clippers boat to the Tate Modern museum, and then we walked across the Millennium Bridge to St. Paul's.  Terrific!

Tate Modern is a truly impressive architectural reclamation project: the building was originally the Bankside power station, designed by Sir Giles Gilbert Scott who also designed the Battersea power station, Waterloo Bridge, and the iconic British red telephone booths. A building with such huge spaces and high ceilings is perfect for showcasing large artworks, and levels 5 and 6 are essentially a two-story glass box referred to as the "lightbeam" as it runs along the entire length of the building (level 6 is also where the main restaurant is located and there are superb views to be had).

Levels 2, 3, and 4 focus on a major art movement and how contemporary artists have responded to these ideas. Some of this space is devoted to temporary exhibitions, and the permanent collection is frequently rehung or moved around, so if you visit more than once in a six month or one year period you may find the galleries quite changed (the museum is meant to be constantly fresh and expanding, after all). But some of the artists whose work you may see here include Matisse, Constantin Brancusi, Roy Lichtenstein, Cy Twombly, Lucio Fontana, Claes Oldenburg, Cindy Sherman, Louise Bourgeois, Francis Bacon, Andy Warhol, Anish Kapoor, Andre Derain, Max Beckmann, Diego Rivera, Dali, Picasso, Joseph Beuys, and Barnett Newman. Level 0 is where the Turbine Hall and The Tanks are located -- this space is truly massive as this is where huge oil-burning generators and oil tanks were located. The Tanks are the world's first museum galleries permanently dedicated to live art. I admit that some of the conceptual art installations at Tate Modern leave me perplexed, but that would be true no matter where I was. When my husband and I visited the Guggenheim Bilbao, we hired a guide who first took us around the building's exterior and then walked us through the galleries inside. "Wow!" is what I walked away thinking, because it was amazing and I was blown away and I would never have even remotely understood most of the works I saw. I will make sure my next visit to Tate Modern is timed for one of the free guided tours (currently 11:00 and 12 noon daily on Level 2 and 13:00 (1:00) and 14:00 (2:00) daily on Level 4).

There is a cafe on level 1, and a cool espresso bar on level 3, but I vastly prefer the restaurant on level 7 -- if you don't want waiter service at a table, you can select some light fare from the bar and find a seat at the long, shelf-like table against one of the windows.

Not surprisingly, we loved walking across the Millennium Bridge, from this very modern edifice to the classic old one on the London skyline. I was a little surprised, however, that my 14-year-old daughter loved St. Paul's so much -- in fact, she claimed it was practically the highlight of the trip for her. And when we later visited the Cabinet War Rooms, I was particularly pleased when she pointed to the famous photo of St. Paul's during the Blitz with sympathy and a sad look on her face.

Next up: a final post on London and one on the Cotswolds.