A favorite lokanta is the Sultanahmet Köftecisi located midway between the Grand Bazaar and
Topkapi Palace. They serve simple lunches of lentil soup, white bean salad, and
grilled lamb köfte which we wash down with the yogurt drink called ayran. It’s
just as popular with locals as with tourists.
The restaurant
scene today in Istanbul is a culinary paradise and several restaurants are
recreating traditional Ottoman dishes. Two that we really like are both pricey
but we think worth the splurge: The Tugra restaurant inside the Çırağan Palace Hotel
has patio seating along the Bosphorus (plan a visit during the full moon!). In
Sultanahmet, we enjoyed the Matbah restaurant in the Ottoman Imperial Hotel. Of
course, whenever possible, we like to shop at the markets with Turkish friends
and dine in their homes.
There are two
locations that we love to frequent for fish dinners in Istanbul: The flower
passage in Beyoğlu, and the street of fish restaurants in an old Armenian
neighborhood called Kumkapi (meaning sand gate) located downhill from
Sultanahmet near the Sea of Marmara.
The owner of the
popular Hamdi restaurant that overlooks the Galata Bridge serves spicy, sumptuous cuisine of southeastern
Turkey. We could eat there every day. Hamdi is always humming with families and
friends.
Although we’ve
visited several Turkish baths in the city, from elegant hotels to rustic
neighborhood hamams, a favorite bath remains the Çemberlitaş Hamam, which we write about in our book.
Architect Mimar Sinan, a contemporary of Michelangelo, designed this bath. We haven’t yet
visited another hamam built by Sinan, the restored Baths of Roxelana that
caters to high-end clients, so are looking forward to this down the road.
And speaking of
high-end clients, we had the opportunity to explore both locations of the
Istanbul department store, Armaggan. The merchandise, more like art objects,
harkens back to the crafts guilds during the Seljuk and Ottoman Empires.
Armaggan owns gold, silver, leather, and textile studios. Their artisans
research natural dying techniques and materials to create exquisite, museum
quality designs.
*Describe
each of your very first visits to Turkey – where did you go, and what inspired you
to go?
Angie:
Our mutual friend, Wendy, was the catalyst for Joy and me. At the time,
I owned a travel bookstore and additionally designed personalized trips for
clients. I met Wendy through her company when she booked Aegean and
Mediterranean boat tours. She had this dream of hiring at Turkish gulet – a
wooden sailing yacht – for herself and her friends to cruise the Turkish coast
for a week. When she invited me, no arm-twisting was required. Few of my customers were then traveling to
Turkey and most Americans still thought
of the country in terms of Oliver Stone’s movie, Midnight Express. Turkey was
considered dangerous. To me that was like a red flag to a bull; I don't trust
negative opinions by people who have never been to the place they're afraid
of. I immediately planned to spend
several weeks after the boat trip traveling solo by bus,across the country. I
had only one agenda, and that was to go to Konya to see the whirling dervishes.
The boat trip was
fabulous, however Wendy never showed up. While I learned that the dervishes
only whirl during a December performance, I met a carpet seller who was
studying to be a dervish and played the ney
- a reed wind instrument used during the ceremony - for me. I also went to
the mosque where Rumi is entombed, and was there during the festival of
troubadours, where young men would stand in courtyards reciting poetry and
singing ballads. I also met a man with
whom I had a three-year relationship (Sami in our memoir) and who has remained
a friend. So, all in all, I’d say that this was a life-changing trip. In
Turkey, anything is possible.
Joy: Wendy and I took our first trip abroad
together in 1982 landing on the Greek Island of Kos, which is a short ferry
ride across the Aegean Sea from the Turkish Coast. So, of course, we were curious about a place
that looked so beautiful and which was still a source of heartbreak for many of
our Greek friends whose families had been uprooted during the Great Exchange of
1923. We took a ferry from Kos Town to
Bodrum, which was a sleepy place back then and felt that we had not only
crossed a physical border but a psychic one a well. We knew so little about
Turkey. I had spent years researching
the roots of the Judeo-Christian-Islamic traditions and much of the history lay
within Turkey’s borders, so I was eager to travel through Turkey and see the
sights such as the first Christian Church in Antakya and the Caves of the moon
god Sin Sanliurfa.
Wendy and I had
once talked about opening a guesthouse somewhere in Greece, but during the
nineties Greece was booming and real estate prices and rentals had risen. Wendy was now traveling regularly to Turkey
and had met a Turkish man in the village of Kalkan. Together they leased a pension while she
closed her business in the States with the goal of living in Turkey, she asked
Angie and me, whom I had yet to meet, to run it. The rest is chronicled in Anatolian Days & Nights.
*You
are very familiar with the poetry of Rumi, the 13th century Persian
poet and Sufi mystic. When did you become interested in Rumi, and what
are some of your favorite sources you would recommend to readers who want to
delve into his work?
Angie: I
remember waiting at the train station in San Juan Capistrano (yes, where the
swallows return each year) to pick up my then boyfriend, Norm. The Los Angeles
train was late, so I used the time to read my Lonely Planet guide about Turkey
in advance of my upcoming trip. “There are
whirling dervishes in Turkey,” I had said to Norm when he got off the train.
“Don’t you want to meet me there?” He was not
impressed or enthused. It was pretty much the end of our relationship and
the beginning of my love for Rumi's poetry. My favorite book
is still Coleman Barks’s Essential Rumi.
Joy: I
am founder of an online magazine whose tagline is: 'Connecting People, Places
and Ideas, Story by Story.' Rumi, in the
great tradition of mystics tells beautiful parables and stories, which is why,
I believe, he is so beloved. We are blessed to have the niece (Catherine
Schimmel) of one of the world’s greatest Islamic scholars, Annemarie Schimmel,
on our staff. Annemarie Schimmel was an
expert on Islam and the poetry of Cellaludin Rumi (or Mevlana, the Master, as
the Turks call him); and in fact her translations were source materials for
Coleman Barks’s translations. So, I
would recommend her book, Look This is
Love: Poems of Rumi (Shambala, 1996).
*What’s
not in your book?
Joy and Angie: Looking back, it's surprising how many stories we were able to weave into the book. But, we left out quite a few. For
instance, when we were in the east, we found the history of the Urartians of
interest and tried to write about it.
But each draft seemed heavy-handed.
Joy:
Angie also wrote a beautiful passage for our Cappadocia chapter from the
vantage point of a Cappadocian father.
What he would have been thinking about at the time Emperor Constantine
and various bishops who were trying to create the Nicene Creed. The challenge was that it belonged in a
different book.
Angie and Joy:
We have an interesting
story of our meeting with an
organization of Turkish women fighting for the right to wear the headscarf at
university and in public office. We were staying at the Ritz Carlton not far
from Taksim Square. Our secular friends warned us that the women would create a
scene in the hotel lobby to get attention. About seven women arrived at the
front desk with a single male companion, all dressed in long dark coats and
headscarves. Heads turned, of course. And it seemed to us that indeed, these
women were eager to make a political point.
We decided it was
best to invite them to our room, and so we ordered tea and cakes through room service.
It was an enlightening, intense meeting. We enjoyed talking to all of the women
who ranged in age from about 20-50, and they were open with us. “If Turkey is a
democracy, why shouldn’t we be able to wear what we want?” asked one of the
young women.
We couldn’t
disagree and still wonder how the conversation might have gone if their
chaperone hadn’t been present.
But, in Turkey,
nothing is simple or black and white.
*On
page 6, you write, “…one moment leaving us delighted and the next leaving us ready
to pack our bags and take the first flight home?” Explain more about what
you mean when you say there were moments when you wanted to pack your bags and
leave.
Angie and Joy: We love the spontaneity and surprises
that come from travel and meeting people, but it can also be frustrating. We
developed a case of amebic dysentery when we were in the southeast and suspect
it might have been caused by a watermelon we ate on a dusty back road near the
Syrian border. The following day, we were heading to the Aegean town of Seljuk
near Ephesus. To get there we had to take two buses, a flight to Istanbul, a
flight to Izmir, and a taxi to our hotel. On the second flight, we were more
than ready to pack it in and head home. But once we settled in and had started a
course of Flagil, sold over the counter and something that would have required
a prescription in the States, we breathed in the moist sea air and balmy
breezes, and everything became light and easy again.
*Where’s
your next trip in Anatolia? Is there a part of Turkey you haven’t yet
visited?
Joy and Angie: We never made it to the Armenian town of
Ani. In the introduction of Anatolian Days & Nights, we share the
story of the breakdown of our rental car and the farmer who helped us get it
towed back to Erzurum from where we had set out.
Angie:
I’m looking forward to visiting Göbekli Tepe, a Neolithic site northeast of
Sanliurfa. Imposing monoliths were carved 11,000 years ago by people who had
not yet developed metal tools or pottery.
Joy: I’ve wanted to fly to Salonika and take a
train over the Greek border into Turkey and on to Istanbul.
The more places
we visit, the longer the list gets.
Plus, each time we go to Istanbul we find something new to see.
Joy is founder and editor-in-chief and Angie is West Coast Editor of
Wild River Review. They'll be among the guest speakers at the upcoming Women's Wellness Conference in Torrance, California on Friday, 11 October. The conference is organized by
Providence Little Company of Mary Foundation and will be held at the Torrance Marriott South Bay, 3636 Fashion Way. Personally, if I were anywhere in the remote vicinity of the West Coast I'd be attending this Conference. Meeting Joy all by herself was a treat, but I think the opportunity to meet these two accomplished women together would be a banquet.
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